Kashmir of Bangladeah
Bisnakandi is known as a Kashmir of Bangladesh.
Thus it was that one rainy morning that we set out towards Bisnakandi from
Sylhet. The road took us through Amborkhana towards the airport. A right turn
before the airport led us towards a large bridge over the river Gowain. We
crossed the stone-crushing centre of Dhupagol where small mountains of
rocks – all different sizes and colours - lined the road. The road itself was
so bad. The distance of that beautiful Place about 39 Km.
At Shalutikor Bazar we made a sharp right
and headed towards Hadar Par, the launching point for Bisnakandi. After more
jarring potholes, the road became narrow but reasonably well-maintained. The
rains had inundated farmland on both sides. On the left, beyond the inundated
fields, the clouds collided with the towering Khasi Hills. At one place
– Damari – plants grew out of the water and twisted and turned into themselves,
creating unexpected reflections in the water.
After parking in
Hadar Par, we walked through the market to Eidgah Ghat on the Piyain river where, even in
this early hour, a dozen engine boats waited for tourists.
Our rental boat
followed the Piyain for perhaps three kilometres to a Y junction on the river.
The Piyain continued on the right; we took the wide canal on the
left. Normally this is the site of furious stone-collection activity, but the
high water levels dampened this. The tops of submerged pyramids of
stone punctuated the water's surface. A few diehard workers kept searching for
pebbles to fill their boats with.
The hills in India
loomed unexpectedly through the clouds like distant sentinels. As we got
closer, I saw that the two closest hills here were separated by a canyon.
Bangladesh ended where the hills started, but the view was breathtaking. Our
boat came to a stop at a small island of stone, right at the border.
On a sunnier dayit would have been a great place to frolic in the shallow water and play
among the rocks. But today the sky was grey, water levels high and the current
forceful. Hence there were few visitors.
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